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South Africa:
Ahead of the Game
Article by Tracey Rayson
My guide’s appearance speaks volumes before he identifies himself. He is a sun-tempered man, clad in green safari garb. Before hoisting a leg up into the Land Rover, elephant rifle in tow, he thrusts his hand out, "Hi, I'm Anton, welcome to Shamwari. I'll be your ranger today," An integral part of maintaining the conservation of the reserve is orchestrated by the game rangers. They are responsible for educating visitors on protection and regeneration of such wildlife projects.
This is my office," he declares, gesturing with an open palm to the varied vegetation of eastern grassland, fynbos, yellowwood, and other flora that make up this widely diverse veld. "You'll see--it's more office space than I could possibly ever need," he winks. I smile in anticipation as he cranks the key. We’re off.
The landscape defies description, rising up to dense thickets of acacia scrub, rolling out to golden, sometimes scorched and dried-up grasslands. It's a divine land mass as far as the eye can see. Shamwari stretches along the Bushman's River, 75 km east of Port Elizabeth. It is the southernmost, big game, private reserve in Africa. The game is out there. You need not spot them to know that. They may spot you first and that presents an imposing danger. However, it appears rangers inherit a keen sense for this. While we may not see the forest for the trees--amazingly, Anton can spot the bark.
Ideally situated in a malaria-free zone, I take comfort in knowing I will not be susceptible to the likely symptoms of blinding headaches, severe nausea, and a fluctuating body temperature.
Barely an hour into the drive, Anton cuts the engine. "Are we close?" I whisper. Anton nods and before he speaks, I spot them. Redefining the word "wilderness" and embodying the very essence of wildlife--they stand before me. A total of 31 in the herd, they amble their massive proportions back and forth between trees and open ground. I'm completely captivated by their imposing stature--almost anxious. Anton senses my slight uneasiness of the elephants’ close proximity and reassures me of their demeanor. "Our scent is incredibly strong and they're not sure what we are. There is nothing in the wild that smells like us. When they see you, they are as inquisitive and scared of us as we are of them."
"Can they sense my fear?" I inquire—laughing uncomfortably. "Not your fear, just your scent." Nervous, I don't dare shift my posture. "If they come around and touch us, please don't try and touch back," asks Anton. "Stay seated and remain still. Sudden movements may startle them." Who would argue? Why startle a herd of 31? "That couldn't be good," I reply under my breath. I freeze--my sweat glands paralyzed--my hands ice-cold.
An elephant has as many as 50,000 muscles in his trunk, can eat as much as 135 kilograms of food a day, and wears out six sets of teeth in a lifespan, Anton told me earlier. I contemplate this staggering tidbit, while the herd forges by. I am secretly thankful they didn't amble over for a visit, but equally delighted with the intimacy of our encounter.
Anton smiles, happy for me that our sighting didn't take hours, but moreover, proud of the joy this natural phenomenon gives in return for his dedicated efforts and commitment to conservation.
The Eastern Cape used to be one of the richest wildlife zones in South Africa. But when the Dutch and British settled the land in the 1800s they took what they couldn't replace. They eliminated all the game-- they thought somehow there was an endless supply. Excessive hunting, or rather slaughtering, occurred when the wild game became a threat to the farmers’ land and livestock. By the end of the 19th century, the lion, buffalo and rhino were completely destroyed by man.
The "Big 5" was first documented in the Eastern Cape, a label derivative of big-game sport hunting. This title was used by hunters when referring to buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion and rhino, because they were considered the most dangerous to hunt. Consequently,
they became the most sought after trophies.
General Manager Joe Cloete and Chairman Adrian Gardiner of Shamwari Game Reserve in South Africa, had a mission. Quite simply, to restore what was here 100 years ago. In 1990, Gardiner bought a small piece of land just north of Addo. This was to be his African weekend retreat. Later that year he decided to enlarge his holiday patch and bring back all the animals previously found in this area. All animal species brought back into this sanctuary have bred, including the previously endangered "Big 5."
Joe speaks of Shamwari, and their tireless commitment to the animals. "Our reserve differs vastly from any other game experience. We are a serious nature conservation project and up until 1990 there was not an animal to be found on this land. We have successfully reintroduced over 25 species: the elephant, white and endangered black rhino, buffalo, hippo, impala, giraffe, lion and the wildebeest, to name a few. Major research, together with the input from historians, assisted us to ensure that accurate restoration took place. This is our contribution to a vanishing way of life."
In 1900, there were an estimated 10 million elephants in Africa. By 1979, the number had dropped to 1.43 million. In 1989, there were only 609,000 left—the victims falling prey to poaching and loss of habitat.
Today, the crusade for conservation contributes to a growing elephant population. Shamwari has a complete wildlife research team, including an anti-poaching unit to ensure an ecological balance prevails.
The old Africa is alive and producing well at this reserve. Shamwari--the Shona word for friend, left me with the feeling that I had made one. It's important to remember those shameful statistics, a grim reminder of our responsibilities for mankind. As would an elephant, I shall not forget.
South Africian Airways
1-800-387-4629
www.saa-canada.com
Shamwari Game Reserve
www.shamwari.com
Tel: +27 42 203-1111
South African Tourism Office
(Satour) www.satour.co.za
e-mail: info@satour.co.za
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