Travellers Voice Magazine -- The Ruins of Copan

The Ruins of Copan: Western Honduras' Mayan Mystery.
Article & Photos by Paul Lucas

On a hot afternoon, the shade found beneath one of the large trees at the Copán Ruins in Western Honduras, is a welcome relief. Like other parts of Central America, the heat, sounds, smells and visual stimuli can be distracting and this massive tree is no exception.

Standing near its trunk, I crane my neck back and peer upwards. Sunbeams filtering through the maze of branches are highlighted by dust blowing from the surrounding farmlands. With hundreds of birds flitting among the leaves and the incessant hum of insects, it is a scene both chaotic and tranquil. The bark is smooth and appears in every shade of brown. But as our guide begins to talk, he draws our attention to the base of the tree. Then to the blocks of stone intertwined among its roots. The stones, he explains, were once part of a plaza where the politics of a Mayan city were conducted.

I am standing in the heart of what was once a thriving city. Rich and elaborate in design, the masterly crafted hieroglyphics tell the stories of kings and warriors. The five-hour bus ride, with its claustrophobic press of occupants was worth it.

Before 1841, few people knew of the Copán ruins. That was when John L. Stephens and Frederick Catherwood, both Americans, published their book "Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan." However, the first European to set eyes on the ruins was a representative of the Spanish King named Diego Garcia de Palacios in 1576.

The history of human activity in the Copán Valley, which lies near the Guatemalan border, predates the Mayan ruins that attract tourists today. Archaeologists have found shards of ceramic pottery dating back to 1200 BC. Copán itself was not founded until approximately 426 BC when a king known as Mah K’ina Yax K’uk’ Mo (Great Sun Lord Quetzal Macaw) assumed rule.

At the height of its power, Copán was inhabited by nearly 20,000 people. By 1200 AD, it was essentially abandoned. Human remains found in the area, dating back to the days when Copán was occupied, show evidence of decreased life spans and severe malnutrition. This discovery suggests that overuse of the surrounding lands caused the slow collapse of agriculture and the subsequent abandonment of the Copán Valley.

Today the site is designated as a World Heritage Site by The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). The entrance fee is approximately $10 US--for non-residents of Central America. For slightly more, a guide can be hired for the afternoon. Guides bring the ruins to life, passing along more intriguing information than you can ever hope to remember.

Although Honduras was on the boundary of the Mayan Empire, Copán is thought to contain the highest forms of artwork and hieroglyphics of all known Mayan sites. The level of intricacy in the thousands of inscriptions around Copán have allowed archaeologists to piece together a comprehensive history of Copán’s rulers--an opportunity not available in many other Mayan sites.

Most impressive among the hieroglyphics and the main attraction at Copán is the Hieroglyphic Stairway--a monument commissioned by King Smoke Shell in 743 AD. This monument consists of 63, 10-metre wide steps and stands 20.76 meters high. Inscriptions on each step, as well as the ramps that border them, reveal the royal story of Copán. The inscriptions are intricately detailed. One archaeologist has compared the skill of Copán’s artists to that of Michelangelo.

Talk to any other traveller in Copán Ruinas -- the conveniently named town a short walk from the ruins and they will tell you they arrived in one of two ways: from Guatemala, in the west, or the closest city in Honduras, San Pedro Sula just to the north-east. Wherever they came from, most will agree that Copán Ruinas, is not what they expected.

The cobble stone streets, white houses with red-tiled roofs and peaceful atmosphere belie the fact that this is a town based on tourism. Instead, the atmosphere is authentic and extremely Spanish. Locals are friendly and quick with a smile and a nod. Each night, people are out enjoying the cool air in the town square. Flavoured crushed ice and mangoes are sold from makeshift stands and bold children who repeatedly shout "Gringo, Com estàs?" as we pass, sell small replicas of Mayan statues.

Chances are, these are the same kids who cleverly accost newly-arrived and disorientated tourists with offers of the cheapest and best hotel rooms in town. Plus, a discount on a horse ride in the country. Those who avoid succumbing to the charms of the town’s young entrepreneurs have little trouble finding a hotel. Most are pleased to discover that good rooms are on average, clean and surprisingly affordable.

As many travellers will agree, the soul of a good trip lies in the small surprises. For those who continue on into Guatemala from Copán, the only way to reach the border is via a haggled ride in the back of a local’s pickup. The dirt road leading to the border has fallen into such disrepair that bus companies refuse to service it. Local truck drivers have cashed in on this opportunity and will charge four times what the ride is worth if given the chance. For new arrivals to Central America, this is a great opportunity to hone bargaining skills.

In any case, drivers will not leave until the truck is thoroughly full. Translation: a 30-minute ride through the Honduran jungle, past tiny farms while sitting on coarse burlap bags of rice, with half a dozen smiling locals.

At the border, while I shake the thick dust from my hair and clothing, men approach and offer to exchange my Lempira, the Honduran currency for Quetzals, the Guatemalan currency. Although they charge a high rate for their services, it’s worth to get rid of all Lempira as it is difficult to exchange in Guatemala.

Crossing the border is quick and painless with few questions asked and only a small departure tax. Consisting of a few weathered shacks, the border crossing is a lonely looking place. As I stand in the swirling dust with my pack at my feet, I feel as though I'm seeing a place that can’t possibly be on any map. But true to Central American style, a bus suddenly heaves into sight belching black smoke and swaying perilously on the rutted road. Its destination, and my next experience, painted brightly across its face.

If you go

Visa requirements: 30 day stay without a visa
Health Risks: Malaria, Tetanus, and Hepatitis. Immunizations are not required but strongly recommended.
Budget:
Plan on spending $15-$20 US per day minimum. Most banks will cash US currency traveller cheques, but always have at least a $50 US dollar bill as a backup. Budget Hotels range from $5-$10 US. Meals range from $3-$5 US.
When to go:
Best weather is from February to April. Other times of the year are either too hot or too wet. If planning to be anywhere in Central America during Easter, book ahead! Easter, or more properly, Semana Santa (Holy Week) is a big deal. A very big deal. It’s an exciting time to visit but hotels fill up quickly.
Getting Around:
It’s all about buses, my friend. There are usually several buses going to the same town so prices stay competitive. Buses are typically well marked and centrally located.