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The Colours of Malaysia
Article and Photos by Patrick Spinks
The sticky air in Kuala Lumpur is tense with anticipation on the opening night of Citrawana 2000: the "Colours of Malaysia". The month long biannual festival is set to celebrate the ethnic and cultural diversity of Malaysia with a spectacular parade, fireworks and exhibitions of art, music and food around the country. Exploding fireworks signal the opening ceremonies in Merdeka Square and nearly 4 000 performers from 14 states burst past me in a kaleidescope of colours showcasing their traditional dance, music and costume. This celebration the performers devote themselves with particular intensity. Malaysia's beloved king is celebrating his 74th birthday in attendance.
While Citrawana celebrates Malaysia's ethnic and cultural diversity, travellers will discover a diversity of experiences between the clean cities, steamy jungles and tropical beaches.
Four hours outside of the modern capital of KL, we climb aboard low riding boats that carry us 60 km up the Tembeling River to reach Taman Negara. The 4343 sq. km of virgin jungle is reputed to be the oldest tropical rainforest in the world. Gliding through coffee coloured water, the surrounding scene is timeless. Water buffalo cool themselves on the muddy banks as brightly coloured birds screech from the trees above. The newly installed powerlines offer sharp contrast to the thatch huts along the riverbank, but show the rapid pace of Malaysia's development.
The next day, after climbing for a view over the jungle and a canopy walk high above the forest floor, dug out canoes with outboard motors carry us back in time up the Tahan River. Passing through waters less than a foot deep at times, we were propelled up the rapids with a pole as the prop was lifted to avoid damage. Local children splash at the water's edge as they have for generations, their noise breaking the incessant buzz of the jungle. Massive trees stretch over the water, with long vines reaching to the water for a drink. We beach at a large waterfall, 5 minutes walk from Taman Negara's best swimming hole. After strenuous day in 30 degree heat, the cool water is bliss.
Kota Bharu, an east coast fishing village, is our next stop. Aside from being a popular jumping off point for boats to the Perhentian Islands, it is also home to one of the most colourful markets in Asia. Pasar Besar (aptly titled: Big Market) is a photographer's paradise. Fresh seafood (still flopping) and meats surround the perimeter with a bounty of strange vegetables in the middle. Upper floors of the four storey building display clothing, textiles and household goods, yeilding a spectacular perspective over the action. Like most in Asia, the market is at its best in the morning.
Idyllic sandy beaches washed by turquoise waters are everywhere in Malaysia, but Gemia Island and the nearby Kapas Island Marine Park are of special note. Here, the "Colours of Malaysia" are experienced in one moment. The sheer number of fish and coral formations in every size, shape and colour is astounding as I hover weightless, amazed by the diversity in the surrounding 25 metres of visibility. Brilliantly hued Rainbow parrot-fish feed off two metre mounds of brain coral while smaller fish, such as the Ribbon Sweetlips, take refuge from the warm current under table shelfs of staghorn coral. Bright orange sea anenomes wiggle their tiny tentacles, straining plankton from the passing current.
Getting there: Malaysian Airlines offers an excellent service via L.A., their friendly service a perfect introduction to Asian hospitality. Info:1-800-552-9264 or Visit their website
For Great Deals on Airfares, Click Here
Tourism Malaysia: 1-800-689-6872
Gem Island Resorts
Taman Negara
When to go: Nov-Feb and June-July see the most rain, but Malaysia has an average annual temperature of 28 degrees. Visibility for diving/snorkelling is best in the dry months.
Heatlh: Standard immunizations are recommended (Hep A, B), and malarial gear is necessary in certain regions. Consult your local travel health clinic.
Budget
Perhaps the greatest attraction of Malaysia is the exchange rate. One of the few places in the world where the Canadian dollar trades well, budget travellers can live on $10-20/day while luxury accommodations start from $75. For those seeking comfort and style, the Mandarin Oriental and Legend Hotels in KL offer impeachable service at prices that are reasonable by western standards.
Given the ethnic diversity of Malaysia, it is no surprise that the culinary experiences are equally diverse. Chinese, Indian, Malay, Thai and western food can all be found. Meals range from 2-5$ at street vendors and small restaurants to 20$+ at finer hotels and restaurants. | 
