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Barbados: A Tropical Trek & Beyond
by Tracey Rayson
Stirrings of history creep up my spine as I survey the sugar cane fields from atop Cherry Tree Hill. The mere thought of those arduous hours spent harvesting sugar crops over the centuries, is mind taxing. Suddenly my backpack is not such a burden. "What it must have been like," I say with a deep breath. "Tis labour intensive mon," remarks Edwin, my Bajan guide. "I can't imagine," I reply. "Jus tink of de rum," quips Peter, a friendly local. He flashes that familiar Bajan smile, and we release a giddy guffaw as if we'd been drinking a bottle of it.
Cherry Tree Hill offers one of the finest views in Barbados, particularly the eastern shore, where the waves slap the coast with brute force. The most easterly of the Caribbean islands, Barbados faces open ocean. It is struck by the the wind-swept Atlantic surf on the East Coast and is caressed by the gentle Caribbean waters on the white beaches of the South and West coasts. I've come to define it in equal parts. A little wave, a little wild, and a little wonder.
Exploring this tropical version of 'Little England' I uncover it's environmental beauty and rich history at multiple levels. The Barbados Natural Trust was established in 1961 and is a non-profit organization dedicated to the preservation of the island's historical sites and areas of ecological importance. The trust primarily assists with managing visitor access to the island's leading sites. These areas provide educational insight into Barbado's wealth of wildlife, floral and cultural attractions, maintaining a high standard under the environmental umbrella.
Young Bajans and members of the National Trust lead Sunday morning hikes throughout the year, covering a different area of the island each week. The hikes attract over 300 enthusiasts weekly and are free of charge, so there is no limit to learning about the island's eco-friendly environment. The hikes are divided into three categories in order to separate the novice and casual hiker from the advanced trekker. Contact the National Trust for the meeting points. All hikes begin at either 6:30a.m. or 3:30p.m. and average about eight kilometres.
Such rarely visited parishes such as St. George and St. Thomas are accessible through Highland Outdoor Tours. The lush gullies, hot springs and abundance of Guava trees are a small sampling of the vast natural surprises we encounter. This scenic hike is a popular mountain bike route, an exciting cycle through Turners Hall Woods, guarded as the only original forest cover left standing in Barbados.
Ending at Long Pond Beach, Edwin reminds me, as inviting as it may be, strong currents coupled with a powerful undertow make for dangerous swimming.
There are nearly 200 species of tropical plants in Welchman Hall Gully, a walking track enshrouded in a thickly wooded ravine. Its lush and densely wooded area is a welcome refuge from the blister of the high noon sun. The sky kissing bamboo is a magnificent sight, an imposing size to other prodigal plant life. There is the nutmeg grove, and the only clove tree on the island.
A haven for the nature and fitness devotee, Welchman Hall Gully is also a natural sanctuary for Green Monkeys, often travelling in groups of a dozen. I spy the shy primate, although hard to spot with his blend of brownish-gray colouring. His highlights of white fur give him that cuddle quality and I express an affection for their cute demeanor. I am told my sentiments aren't shared by Barbadian farmers, who can lose crops of mango, papaya, and bananas at the hands of these "cute" yet shameless fruit poachers.
The most sacred of crops in Barbados is the sugar cane. The key ingredients for the oldest rum in the world: Mount Gay. Although the sugar windmill was replaced with new technology over the years, sugar still dominates the agricultural exports of Barbados.
Close to Farley Hill National Park and 2kms southeast of Cherry Tree Hill resides the largest, complete windmill in the Caribbean. The Morgan Lewis Sugar Windmill was built in 1776. I smile at the loving restoration of the original gears, shaft and grinding wheel, preserved from the days it ground sugar cane by use of wind power.
The Sudbury Plantation House, built over 300 years ago is an excellent testament to the association of great restored sugar estate houses. It creates a vivid impression of life on a sugar estate in the 18th and 19th centuries. My tour inside reveals it's rich history and opulent collection of antiques. I am told that although there are other houses with equally varied histories, Sudbury is unique because it is the only plantation house entirely open to the public. Visitors are able to view every room. An invitation to a candlelight Plantation dinner will have you seated around a 200 year old mahogany table. The cellars, originally used for storing yams and root vegetables grown on the plantation, now house a collection of antique carriages, the largest collection in the Caribbean. My impression is that Sudbury sustains a firm commitment to preserve the heritage of a gracious past.
While touring around the area, across from Farley Hill, we check out The Barbados Wildlife Reserve. This walk through zoo is a habitat for a cross-section of wildlife. We meander through short paths lined with mahogany trees and spot the infamous Green Monkey. Privy again to view him in his wild domain, I watch closely as he grooms his fellow simian. With watchful eyes we press on. There is much to observe in this wild animal kingdom. The sluggish red-footed turtle, Brocket Deer, iguanas, macaws and cockatoos, tortoises and to my surprise, a porcupine.
Time prevents us from seeing everything, but I catch a glimpse of a bushy-tailed mongoose before we leave. I sigh relief when told that the mighty python is one of the few caged species on the reserve. I pass on viewing just the same. This wildly inhabited land mass is rivaled only by the multi-inhabited waters that surround it.
After a short ride aboard The Ocean Quest, we arrive at the dive site of The Atlantis III Submarine. After a day of trekking around lush tropical gardens, I am about to submerge to the colourful sponge gardens residing on the ocean floor. The transformation is captivating. Without a valid diving certificate, this is the closest status to strapping on a scuba tank. We descend to a depth of 39 metres for a fifty minute tour of the coral reefs off the West coast .
Teeming with Caribbean and Atlantic marine life, these big coral heads house schools of fish, in colours a rainbow would be hard pressed to cover. Sea horses, Frog fish and the Hawksbill turtle are among our exotic sightings, not to mention a great sunken wreck. This under water expedition is an exceptional overview of shallow coral reefs and a close-up view of Barbado's other wild side. | 
