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Exploring Turkey
by Patrick Spinks
Photos by Martine Willox
From a geographic standpoint, the nation of Turkey lays claim to a unique position on the globe, bridging both European and Asian land. Istanbul and its surrounding peninsula are part of Europe, but across the strait of Dardenelles, the rest of Turkey is in Asia. Containing a wealth of ruins, a rich heritage and friendly Muslim culture, Turkey has been for many budget travellers a destination of choice.
Turkey has been fought over for centuries: bearing witness to Christian crusades and the rise and fall of both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. In World War One, Turkey was embattled during the fierce defence of Istanbul at Galipoli, as the allied forces unsuccessfully tried to secure a warm water port in the Baltic region.
Turkey’s historical wealth is evidenced in the remains of ancient Ephesus and countless other ruins. The fantastic rock formations, caves and underground cities in Goreme illustrate the unique geology of the land, while the beaches, tree-houses and volleyball lifestyle have made the ambiance of Olympus a popular attraction. Indeed the diversity of Turkey’s attractions add to the appeal of this middle eastern country.
Istanbul
Once known as Constantinople, Instanbul is the start of most Turkish itineraries. Travelling by
train, from either Greece or Eastern Europe (31 hours from Athens or Budapest), you'll arrive at Sirceci railway station on the European side of Istanbul. The travellers’ area of Sultanahmet is approximately one kilometre south, offering a range of accommodation for all tastes and budgets. From the bus station or airport, taxis to Sultanahmet are inexpensive and plentiful, but bargain hard, or negotiate a rate in a share taxi (called a dolmus).
A word on choosing your room in Istanbul: despite the fantastic views of the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia that many hotels offer, don't stay too close. The Blue Mosque, as an operating place of worship for Muslims, amplifies a call to prayer that will jolt you alive at five a.m. and every few hours thereafter. For those who don't mind early wake up calls, there are always inexpensive hotels near town mosques. Private rooms start at 12$ (CDN) in Istanbul ($6 and up elsewhere) , but dormitories offer clean beds from 4$ a night. The Hostelling International affiliate in Istanbul receives excellent reports from travellers.
Attractions in Istanbul include the city’s famous mosques, some that rank among the most important in the Islamic world. Topkapi Palace is worth a day (entrance $3 CDN), to see the artifacts, jewels and art that adorned the Sultan’s domicile. The nearby Sunken Palace Cistern provided water during summer and during periods of siege. The Grand Bazaar is an underground labyrinth of market stalls selling everything from Turkish carpets to clothing and household goods. Great browsing.
Galipoli
For those interested in WWI history, Cannakale is the best town to access the sights and monuments dedicated to the fallen soldiers at Galipoli. Those from Australia and New Zealand take special pride in knowing the contributions of their grandfathers are remembered respectfully. Travellers from Australasia flock here in pilgrimage, particularly around Anzac (Australian-New Zealand Army Corps) Day.
The town of Galipoli (Gelibolu in Turkish) has less in the way of accommodation and tour services, and is further from the sights than Cannakale, so more tour time is spent in transit. Istanbul to Cannakale takes roughly five hours by bus and costs $10 CDN. The bus stops at a small car and passenger ferry which crosses the Dardenelles to Cannakale. Some buses cross the water on a larger ferry, but this service is expensive.
Once in Cannakale, commissioned touts from various pensions and hotels will aggressively inform you about their services. Accommodation is plentiful and most hotels offer tours of Galipoli, that include a movie (with Mel Gibson) and a documentary paying tribute to the Anzac troops.
Both the Yellow Rose and Anzac House are reasonably priced and offer similar standards ($6 a night; tours cost $7, most offering excellent value). Be forewarned that these places spread elaborate rumours about the horrific practises of their competition (each other), trying to scare travellers into staying with them. Ignoring them is best as I know people that have stayed at both without incident. There are some excellent new hotels opening in the area.
The legendary city of Troy is 40 minutes from Cannakale. It is hardly worth the effort though. There is a replica wooden horse at the sight and a mediocre museum, but the ruins of Troy are disappointing. Excavations have uncovered structures from nine different cities which were built and rebuilt after the inevitable earthquake damage and destruction that proves such a powerful force in the region. The city dates from 3000 B.C. (Troy I), whereas most of the ruins are from 200 B.C. (Troy IX). 'Trojan Horse Troy' is thought to have been Troy V or VI. A dolmus to Troy is cheap (about 80 cents) and runs frequently.
Travelling south from Cannakale (7 hours, $10 by bus) Selcuk is a quiet little town with an ancient castle from the Christian crusades dominating the skyline. Located only a few kilometres from the beach and the ruins at Ephesus, this is an ideal location for a multi-day stop. Accommodation is economical and abundant. Most pensions include free transportation to and from Ephesus which is convenient, but not of major importance since a dolmus only costs about 50 cents.
Ephesus, one of the most famous cities of Roman times, was founded near the mouth of the River Kaystros around 3000 B.C. The fertility of the soil, its’ position at the starting point of eastern trade routes, and the fact that it was a prominent religious centre both in pagan times and during Christianity, enabled Ephesus to become one of the greatest cities in history. Unfortunately, like most cities built during these times, damage by massive earthquakes, fire and the shifting silt of the marshy river land forced Ephesus to be rebuilt several times in a few different locations. Thanks in large part to restoration efforts, the city still provides a sense of wonder. Employed in the designs were centrally heated floors, sewage systems with running water, and of course the roman bath house with cool, warm and hot baths adjoining the gymnasium. Far from the primitive settlements one imagines of 5000 years ago, Ephesus exudes an aura of grandeur, even in its dilapidated state.
Other attractions include visiting the local museum, where they display an extensive collection of statues and artifacts. A walk around the castle yields impressive views of Selcuk and the surrounding countryside. There is no admission fee, caretaker present, or gateway to enter through, but access is possible by following local goat herders to their 'secret' entrance.
Various day trips are possible from Selcuk, such as a visit to Kusadadi, the cruise ship port 30 minutes south of Ephesus, where in addition to the casino there is an extensive market. This is another good base for exploring Ephesus and the surrounding area. A dolmus costs $1.20 and takes about 20 minutes from Selcuk.
Pammukale is another day trip to see the famous blue pools set against the white calcified limestone, the arid Turkish countryside providing a sharply contrasted background. The trip takes 3 hours from Selcuk and costs $5 each way. Despite gracing many a post card, the pools are a letdown. Thanks to the profusion of hotels tapping into the springs to offer “hot mineral baths", the lower pools are cold and clammy, with 10 inches of sediment on the bottom (not conducive to leisurely soaking). The higher pools, commercially operated, are moderately warm at best.
Fethiye
Fethiye’s attractions include ancient tombs carved in the hillsides, hikes to abandoned towns, and magnificent beaches that draw worldwide attention. Fethiye is a must see on any Turkish itinerary. The bus station is a long walk from the water and hotel areas, so shopping for a room can be time consuming. Easiest to accept a ride and room from a tout, then change places the next day if you desire. Twelve island cruises in the Mediterranean offer snorkelling, sun and beaches, costing $10-20 per person. Rates depend on the season, the size of your group, and your bargaining abilities. Larger groups get the best rates in the shoulder season (October-November).
Oludeniz is a picture perfect beach located 20 minutes from Fethiye (1$ by dolmus). In the summer Oludeniz is over run with European package tourists, but in the offseason the beach can be a quiet place for sun and surf. At the west end of a fine sandy beach, a turquoise lagoon offers a tranquil setting against the mountain backdrop. Beach accommodation is available, but much of it closes during the off season, leaving Fethiye as your only choice. A hiking trail from Fethiye leads to Oludeniz (takes 5-7 hours) through Greek villages that were abandoned in the partition between Greece and Turkey during the 1950's. Views are spectacular.
Olympus
Well known on the travellers' circuit, as the 'tree house' place, this is a great destination for R & R. Located one hour (5$ by bus) from Antalya, Olympus is on the Mediterranean sea, offering beaches and swimming to accompany the beer and volleyball lifestyle. Accommodations cost 6$ per person, including breakfast and a buffet style dinner. Best bargain in Turkey. The beer is cheap and there is always a supply of travellers available for chit-chat and backgammon.
A 40 minute walk from the tree houses is the 'eternal flame' where naturally occurring methane gas escapes from the ground, burning incessantly in small fires on the rocky hillsides. While beautiful at night, it is recommended to bring a flashlight to navigate the trail back. Along the way there are, as with everywhere in Turkey, lots of small ruins to explore. Don't bother looking for the elusive 2 metre high flame that supposedly exists, it doesn't. Surrounding Olympus are numerous groves of orange trees. For the adventurous, there are climbs reaching the caves in the hills above the village.
Goreme
Another ‘must see’ Turkish destination, the town of Goreme requires an overnight bus ride into Cappadocia, an expansive region in central Anatolia. The overnight bus ($15) departs Antalya at 9 p.m., arriving at 6:30 a.m..
The region’s soft volcanic rock allowed underground cities to be tunnelled out and numerous cave villages exist. Zelva valley is an excellent day trip from Goreme. This abandoned cave village was inhabited until the 1960's, with an impressive network of caves and tunnel passages to connect the massive mutli-room dwellings. The volcanic stone is also susceptible to erosion from external elements resulting in the distinctive phallic shape of the rock. Snow can come early in the highlands of Cappadocia (November), closing the mountain passes and involuntarily extending your stay in the region.
Tours of the regions’ attractions often stop at places like Pigeon Valley, where the Hittites raised pigeons in homes carved out of the rock, collecting their droppings to fertilize the mineral deficient soil. Another highlight is Derinkuyer, an underground city that extends eight stories underground, once holding 100 000 people and their livestock. Ingenious ventilation systems used the lower air pressure of cold water wells to keep fresh air coming in. The extensive tunnels and rooms allowed inhabitants to live underground for months at a time, escaping the summer heat as well as invasions such as the Christian crusades.
Other tours available (in summer) are walking tours of the Ilhara gorge, where in addition to exploring caves and underground cities, travellers can camp and explore for wild cannabis plants. You may want to watch the movie, Midnight Express before you endeavour in this practice though.
Avanos, located twenty minutes north of Goreme, is famous for its pottery. It also has an excellent market on Fridays. Many of the shops allow visitors to take a turn on the pottery wheel.
Aside from being a fascinating destination in its own right, Turkey is a good jumping off point to other countries in the region. Overland travel through Syria provides the gateway to Jordan and Egypt (provided you don't have an Israeli stamp in your passport, and don't mention any intention to visit the "occupied Palestine" during your stay). Iran opens the overland trail to Asia via Pakistan and India. Consulates in Istanbul and Ankara issue visas efficiently, although they
require a letter from your own consulate (Canadian consulate in Ankara charges $10 for these). Whether visiting Turkey for its own sake, or to gain access to the overland routes, Turkey’s charms will leave a lasting impression.
IF YOU GO:
Visas not required with Canadian passports for stays up to three months.
Health: Polio, tetanus, diptheria, typhoid, hepatitis A & B, rabies and TB are all present in Turkey: vaccinations should be considered. Travellers to Turkey's steamy regions (Marmara and the Black Sea Coast) should bring anti-malarial gear.
$1 CDN=394,538.94 TL
Since the value of the Turkish lira always sliding, change money every few days. Banks and exchange offices open Mon-Fri, ATMs are widely available (accepting Plus, Cirrus and Visa). Keep some exchange receipts as you may need them to change liras back at the end of your stay.
Budget: You can travel on as little as $15 per day using buses and trains, staying in pensions, and eating one restaurant meal daily. For $20 to $45 you can travel on plusher buses, take well-cushioned train seats, kick back in 1 and 2-star hotels and eat most meals in restaurants. For US$45 to US$75 per day you can move up to 3 and 4-star hotels, take the occasional flight, and dine in restaurants all the time. TIP: the best (and affordable) restaurants are filled with locals, usually just outside tourist areas.
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