Travellers Voice Magazine -- Squamish: West Coast Rock

SQUAMISH: West Coast Rock
Article and Photos by Dave Humphreys

Squamish has been called the "adventure capital of North America". Located between Vancouver and Whistler, Squamish offers incredible biking, hiking, mountaineering, scuba diving, rafting, windsurfing, and paddling. No such list is complete, of course, without the sport that put Squamish on the map: rock climbing. For those seeking vertical adventures this summer, Squamish is the place to be.

With the release of the Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McClane (1999), even locals are busy searching out new crags. With as many as 1250 climbs and 3000 pitches of crack, face, slab, and aid climbing routes, the possibilities are endless. Visits from well known climbers such as Peter Croft, Scott Cosgrove, Chris Sharma, and Lynn Hill, show that there are still quality projects to be had.

For everyone from the beginning climber cruising the slabs at "Burgers and Fries" to the experienced scaling the "Grand Wall", Squamish is a climber's paradise. This is becoming more apparent as each season brings new and returning climbers alike.

Top of the Rock: the 'Climber's Guide' is the best source for finding your appropriate route. There is something for climbers of all abilities in Squamish. Below are some general suggestions grouped by difficulty.

EASY
The Little Smoke Bluffs
Good area for some day hiking and great climbing. A lot of routes to choose from but can get busy on the weekends.

5.6 "Cat Crack"
5.7 "Laughing Crack"
5.8 "Octopus Garden In The Shade"
5.9 "Penny Lane"

All are trad and have good protection. One pitch.

MEDIUM
The Chief
5.10c "Exasperator" 2 pitch. Amazing finger crack with good trad protection. Busy on weekends but worth the wait.
5.10a "Rock On" 6 pitch. All trad, even some anchors. Gives a nice apline feel and each pitch is solid.
5.10c "Squamish Buttress" 6 pitches must be gained via "Rock On" or "Diedra" making for over 15 pitches.
5.10b "Blazing Saddles" 2 pitch (gained via Borderline which is also two pitches, for a total of 4 pitches). This beauty is on the Sherrifs Badge and is one of my favourite cracks in Squamish. A beautiful hike just to get there.

HARD
The Chief

5.11a "Grand Wall" 11 pitches. It can be gained via several routes but just get to the "Split Pillar" and you'll be at the start of one of the classic free climbs in North America.

5.11c "Alaska Highway" on the North Walls. One of the best multi-pitches in Squamish. Sustained and difficult grades take you through chimneys and corner cracks.

5.13a "Eurasian Eyes" A sport climb but consider taking some small cams. Involves a steep hike with grade five scrambling. Fantastic exposure.

With the increase in media exposure, climbing has become even more popular. Qualified guiding services give thrillseekers a safe opportunity to try their hand to this exciting sport.